Hours:
Monday – Saturday: 8am – 5pm

Welcome to Jolly Lane Greenhouse

We are a Rapid City nursery that provides helpful information to both green thumbs and beginning gardeners about horticulture in the Black Hills and surrounding areas. Our garden supply center houses a variety of plant selections, including shrubs, annuals, perennials, and herbs, as well as garden décor.

At Jolly Lane Greenhouse, you'll find your senses stimulated by an extensive assortment of seasonal plants, shrubs, and trees from our garden supply centers. We have a variety of fragrant and brightly-colored foliage, bushes, evergreens, perennials, vines, ornamental grasses, and rose bushes—there's something for every season!

Jolly Lane Greenhouse has everything you need to start planning and planting your flower and vegetable seedlings. You'll find a huge selection of flower and vegetable seeds, germinating soil and trays, heating mats for germinating, marking stakes and much more.

Please feel free to drop us a line!

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Seasonal Plants

 The Tomato

There is a tremendous variety of tomatoes.  Whatever variety you choose will have the same basic growing requirements.

For best results harden off tomato plants for a few days before planting in the garden.  Place them in a sheltered area for the first couple of days.  Gradually move them to a sunny, open spot.  If frost is predicted, move them in.  They are happiest when transplanted late in the afternoon or early evening.  A mild, cloudy day is the best for transplanting.

Dig a hole 5 to 6 inches deep, put in a couple handfulls of good compost, and cover with 1 to 2 inches of soil.  Remove the bottom leaves from the stem and plant to just below the first set of remaining leaves.  To protect new plants from cutworms, wrap a 3 inch square piece of newspaper around the plant stem.  Plant so half of the paper is below the ground and half is above ground.  Water them thoroughly after planting and keep the soil moist for the next few days.  Cage or set stakes early to avoid damaging the roots.

Trap heat and block out wind on new transplants.  You do this with plastic wrap around cages, Wall-O-Water, cardboard, old tires, one gallon plastic jugs, milk cartons, one pound coffee cans, etc.

Common Problems:

Blossom End Rot - This problem is especially widespread when rapidly growing.  When the roots fail to obtain sufficient water and calcium to be transported to the rapidly developing fruits, the fruits become rotted on their blossom ends.  Tomatoes planted too early in cold, heavy soils often have poorly developed root systems and can have trouble supplying the plant with sufficient water and calcium in times of drought.  It is best to wait to plant tomatoes until the soil has sufficiently warmed up.  Reliable irrigation is necessary to maintain a steady, even growth rate of the plants.  Mulching of the soil is helpful in maintaining soil moisture during times of extreme heat and drought.  The use of a fertilizer low in nitrogen but high in phosphate will help to reduce the problerm.  In emergency situations, the foliage and blossoms can be sprayed with a solution of calcium chloride such as that found in 'Rot Stop' by Bonide.  Which we have at Jolly Lane Greenhouse.

Catfacing - Odd Shaped fruits with unusual swellings.  Usually caused by below 50 degrees F temperatures during flowering and fruit set.  May also be caused by excessive soil nitrogen and erratic soil moisture.

Blossom Drop - Caused by nighttime temperatures of below 55 degrees F or above 70 degrees F and daytime temperatures above 85 degrees F.  These temperatures cause the pollen to become tacky and non-viable and pollination cannot occur.  If the blossoms are not pollinated, they die and fall off.  Humidity that is too low or too high also interferes with successful pollination, resulting in blossom drop.  Water tomato plants deeply, as shallow watering can stress plants and cause blossom drop.

Curling of Leaves - Irregular watering and severe pruning can cause leaf curl.  This is very common, but does not affect production.

Sunscald - Green or ripening tomatoes get too much sun.  Sunscald will appear as a yellowish white patch on the side facing the sun.  Do not over prune your plants so they have protective foliage.

Blight - Tomato blight is caused by a fungus and will appear on leaves as a brown spot surrounded by yellow.  Lower leaves suffer first.  The disease will move up the plant and the affected leaves will eventually wither and drop from the plants.  Blight can be controlled by staking your tomatoes to keep them off the ground, and mulching around your tomatoes to prevent splashing of soil up onto the leaves during watering or rainfall.  If you do discover blight on your lower leaves, immediately remove and destroy the affected leaves.  Use a fungicide such as Fung-onil by Bonide on affected plants (Jolly Lane also has this in stock).  In future years, plant tomatoes in an area that has not had tomatoes or potatoes planted in it for several years.

In fall, if a light frost is predicted (temperature remains below 28 degrees F for  only a few hours), cover tomato plants with sheets or big boxes.  If a heavy freeze is predicted (below 29 degrees F for an extended period of time), pick all green tomatoes, lay them in a single layer in a flat, cover them with newspaper.  Tomatoes ripen faster in the dark than on the sunny windowsill.  Check them every 2 to 3 days for ripening tomatoes.


Events

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We don't have any events in the summer.  Please check back for upcoming events.  Stop in and see us.

Jolly Lane Tips

Caring for Shade Trees!

Watering! 

Although large trees are sensitive to water shortage, they do not usually require supplemental watering as long as they are mulched and the rainfall is regular.  All trees partially dehydrate when dormant in winter, so they need generous moisture in the spring and early summer.  Newly planted trees need heavy watering in the fall, right before the ground freezes and during drought periods.  During prolonged drought, compensate for lack of rainfall by watering the trees at least once a week.  Run a low sprinkler for 40-60 minutes so water penetrates deeply into the soil.

MULCH!  MULCH!  MULCH!

Mulching reduces water evaporation from soil and keeps it moist longer.  Apply mulch at planting time in a 3-4 ft. circle, 3-4" deep, and expand the mulched area as the canopy of the tree grows. Any organic material - chopped leaves, pine needles, wood chips or a similar product can be used with or without landscape fabric (NOT plastic).  A large tree should have a mulched area approximately 10 ft. across.

Fertilizing:

Feed all deciduous trees once a year, either late fall (October) or early spring as soon as the soil is thawed.  Sprinkle a slow-acting, granular, all purpose fertilizer, (ex. Jirdon Tree and Shrub Fertilizer) on the soil under each tree, out to 1 1/2 times the distance from the truck to the tips of its branches (its drip line).  If the distance is 15 ft., fertilize out to 22 ft. from the trunk.  Do not let the fertilizer contact the trunk.  If using a 10-10-10 fertilizer, use about 1/2 pound for every inch of trunk diameter.  Do not fertilize newly planted trees during the first year.

Additional Precautions:

Staking newly planted trees is recommended for the first year in windy locations.  Use tree straps and wire to tie the tree loosely to stakes driven at NW and SE directions.

Tree protectors that wrap around the trunk prohibit mechanical and vermin damage.  In deer areas, before Labor Day, fence the entire tree to prevent 'buck-rub'.  Once the tree has been damaged, little can be done to save the tree.

Jolly Lane Greenhouse has all the fertilizer, tree wraps and tree protectors you will need. 




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