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Sowing Seeds
Sowing seeds indoors during the winter starts with dusting off your gardening gloves and getting a little dirty as you prepare your seeds for this pre-spring process. For more information about choosing the right seeds, picking the right containers, and preparing your soil for germination, visit the following Sowing Seeds page. Remember to label and date each seed planted and write notes on the seed packets. This makes it easier the following winter when you begin next year’s sowing season. The information also serves as a reminder to which plants were enjoyed, how they grew, and the amount of fruit the plant produced. There are several reasons for raising bedding plants from seed rather than buying them ready for planting—saving money, having a much wider choice of varieties or just for the sense of achievement. Some 50 million seed packets are purchased every year and most give satisfaction. Failures are inherent if simple steps are not taken to ensure proper germination procedures and provision of light and moisture after emergence. Follow the seven easy steps below for successful seed starting:
Soil Preparation
![]() Thorough soil preparation is vital for successful seed gardening outdoors. For those who have suffered low germination rates or complete seed failure it was probably due to poor preparation. A good seed bed not only gives higher rates of germination, it benefits growing seedlings for weeks. The first, most important step in preparing soil for planting is to do a soil test to find out what nutrients the soil lacks Add only the nutrients necessary. More is not always better when it comes to plant nutrients. Don't feel compelled to add a little bit more of a fertilizer that promises great results. Too much of any one nutrient can actually produce toxic results. Buy only what's required and save the rest of your money for a better use, like more plants. Step 1 - Choosing the right seeds
When choosing seed it is very important to use high quality, fresh seeds that are available at garden centers. The seed package should include the date of packaging, quantity, germination times and often a picture of the emerging seedling. Store the new unopened seed packets in an air tight container in a cool, dark place until you're ready to sow. Step 2 - Choosing seed containersThere are many different types of seed starting containers available. Always use a container with adequate drainage holes to start seed. Small seed can be started in half-pots or in rows in a germination tray. Larger seed can be directly sown in trays with mulit-cell pack inserts. All germination containers should be sterile and very clean. If you have containers at home and you wish to reuse them, wash well with hot, soapy water and soak for ten minutes in a bleach solution of one part household bleach to eight parts water. Allow to air dry.Step 3 - Starting seeds
When starting seed use a peat based growing mix that is specially formulated for seed germination. This airy mix is premoistened and sterile. Fill sterile container to within one half inch of the top and moisten lightly the day prior to seeding. Cell packs are filled level to top and lightly settled by watering. Check the seed packet to see if the seed is to be covered and how heavy it is to be applied. We use medium vermiculite as a cover for seeds that need cover. (some seeds require light and no cover) Step 4 - GerminationA clear plastic domed cover over the flat keeps an evenly moist humid environment for the seed. You can use clear plastic wrap or glass panes over a container that has headspace between the pot rim and the soil. Place the covered flat in a warm (65-70 degree) environment until seeds emerge. Heat coils are available for purchase to ensure an even temperature. Usually you submerge the coil in dry sand to get a more even heat. Be sure to check the germination temperature on the back of the seed packet. As soon as the seedlings emerge remove the clear cover to allow for adequate air exchange on the new seedling. Failure to do this can result in damping-off.Step 5 - Watering
The seedlings should be moved to an area of bright indirect light. The young plants will not tolerate direct sunlight. Turn the containers daily to prevent leaning. Water with a mist sprayer from the top when the soil starts to change color over most of the top of the container. Bottom watering at this point can dislodge the new roots. Overwatering can cause the roots and stems to rot or become infected by damping-off. Do not be tempted to fertilize the seedlings. Step 6 - TransplantingWhen the seedlings set on their first set of true leaves transplanting is necessary if they are seeded densely in a small container. Plants should be gently pricked out of the seeding container and placed in cell packs or peat pots filled with a high quality, soilless plant medium. Use a pencil to lift the individual plant, holding it by the leaves (not the stems) and dislodging the roots carefully place the seedling in the hole and firm soil around seedling. Water the transplants with a fine mist and place back in the light and keep the temperatures cooler. Do not let the soil dry out completely but avoid keeping the soil too wet. Fertilize with a diluted water-soluble fertilizer such as Peters, Miracle Gro or fish emulsion when the seedling has begun to set new leaves. The dilution rate and fertilization schedule is noted on the packaging for new transplants. Harden the plants off outside in a shady protected place for several days before planting outside. |
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