Hours:
Monday – Saturday: 8am – 5pm

Weekly Specials

Welcome to Jolly Lane Greenhouse

We are a Rapid City nursery that provides helpful information to both green thumbs and beginning gardeners about horticulture in the Black Hills and surrounding areas. Our garden supply center houses a variety of plant selections, including shrubs, annuals, perennials, and herbs, as well as garden décor.

At Jolly Lane Greenhouse, you'll find your senses stimulated by an extensive assortment of seasonal plants, shrubs, and trees from our garden supply centers. We have a variety of fragrant and brightly-colored foliage, bushes, evergreens, perennials, vines, ornamental grasses, and rose bushes—there's something for every season!

Jolly Lane Greenhouse has everything you need to start planning and planting your flower and vegetable seedlings. You'll find a huge selection of flower and vegetable seeds, germinating soil and trays, heating mats for germinating, marking stakes and much more.

Please feel free to drop us a line!

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Seasonal Plants

 Roses

Types

Hybrid Tea - Long stems, nicely shaped medium to large blooms with many petals.  Grafted onto roots of wild roses.  Must be covered in winter in our zone.

Floribunda - Bears flowers in clusters with several blooms open at a time.  Blooms throughout the summer.

Grandiflora - Large floribunda with nicely shaped hybrid tea like blooms.

Miniature - Leaves and flowers small.  Plant will grow to approximately 15" in height.

Shrub - Related to a wild rose.  Usually fewer petal counts. More hardy in winter in our zone.  Easier upkeep.  Repeat bloom.

Climbers and Ramblers - If tied to a support, can be made to climb.  Ramblers have long pliable stems with small flowers and a single bloom period.  Climbers have stiff stems with larger flowers and repeat flowering.

Site -  Roses need plenty of sun.  Less than 6 hours of sun a day can cause legginess, fewer flowers and more disease problems.  Avoid waterlogged soil and allow for good air circulation.  Avoid planting new roses in soils that have grown roses for more than 10 years.  Amend your soil with compost, peat moss, or well-rotted manure to obtain a soil high in organic matter.

Mulch - A 2 to 3 inch layer of bulky organic material placed on the soil surface around plants keeps soil moist during hot, dry periods; reduces weeds; improves soil structure as mulch breaks down; and reduces black spot.  Keep mulch away from the crown of the rose.

Pruning - Gets rid of old, exhausted wood and promotes development of strong, healthy stems (see Steps 1 and 2 below).  Make clean, sloping cuts just above an outward dormant bud.

       Step 1.  Cut out dead, damaged, or diseased wood.  The cut surface should be white.  If it is brown, the tissue is dead or dying and the stem should be cut back farther until the cut surface is white.

      Step 2.  Cut out very thin stems, branches that rub, and suckers.  The goal is to have an open-centered plant.  This allows for good air circulation and gives the plant an attractive shape.  Up to one-thrid of the stems can be removed yearly without damage to the plant.

Watering - During dry weather, too little water will impair growth and result in small blooms and an early end to flowering.  Newly planted roses need to be watered often and thoroughly, as well as roses planted against walls or in sandy soil.  However, roses do not like a waterlogged area.

Feeding - For the best performance, feed your roses with a good all around rose fertilizer every year, once in early spring as leaves are starting to unfurl, and once in late June or early July.  The three major components in fertlilzer are nitrogen (which stimulates leaf and stem growth), phosphate (which stimulates root and flower growth), and potash (which helps produce top quality blooms and improves disease resistance).  The remaining minor components such as copper, iron, manganese, and zinc help with disease prevention and overall general plant health.

Problems - Not every problem is caused by bugs or disease.  Many problems are caused by weather, lack of nutrients, drift from lawn or weed spraying, and poor management.

Diseases - The three main rose diseases are powdery mildew, black spot and rust.  Feeding your roses yearly to maintain vigorous growth is the best disease prevention.  However, if serious problems persist, you may want to use a systemic drench in the soil or a foliar spray to help control insects or disease.  Use for Systemic soil drench -Rose Rx Systemic Drench by Bonide or All-In-One Rose and Flower Care Systemic By Bayer Advanced and for Foliar spray - Fung-onil by Bonide or Rose Rx by Bonide.  These are available at Jolly Lane Greenhouse. 


Events

Don't forget to check in October for our wagon rides and marshmellow roasting!

Jolly Lane Tips

Caring for Shade Trees!

Watering! 

Although large trees are sensitive to water shortage, they do not usually require supplemental watering as long as they are mulched and the rainfall is regular.  All trees partially dehydrate when dormant in winter, so they need generous moisture in the spring and early summer.  Newly planted trees need heavy watering in the fall, right before the ground freezes and during drought periods.  During prolonged drought, compensate for lack of rainfall by watering the trees at least once a week.  Run a low sprinkler for 40-60 minutes so water penetrates deeply into the soil.

MULCH!  MULCH!  MULCH!

Mulching reduces water evaporation from soil and keeps it moist longer.  Apply mulch at planting time in a 3-4 ft. circle, 3-4" deep, and expand the mulched area as the canopy of the tree grows. Any organic material - chopped leaves, pine needles, wood chips or a similar product can be used with or without landscape fabric (NOT plastic).  A large tree should have a mulched area approximately 10 ft. across.

Fertilizing:

Feed all deciduous trees once a year, either late fall (October) or early spring as soon as the soil is thawed.  Sprinkle a slow-acting, granular, all purpose fertilizer, (ex. Jirdon Tree and Shrub Fertilizer) on the soil under each tree, out to 1 1/2 times the distance from the truck to the tips of its branches (its drip line).  If the distance is 15 ft., fertilize out to 22 ft. from the trunk.  Do not let the fertilizer contact the trunk.  If using a 10-10-10 fertilizer, use about 1/2 pound for every inch of trunk diameter.  Do not fertilize newly planted trees during the first year.

Additional Precautions:

Staking newly planted trees is recommended for the first year in windy locations.  Use tree straps and wire to tie the tree loosely to stakes driven at NW and SE directions.

Tree protectors that wrap around the trunk prohibit mechanical and vermin damage.  In deer areas, before Labor Day, fence the entire tree to prevent 'buck-rub'.  Once the tree has been damaged, little can be done to save the tree.

Jolly Lane Greenhouse has all the fertilizer, tree wraps and tree protectors you will need.